How to get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s

How to get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s

How to get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s

I want to improve the weight power ratio of my 130 class training build. Therefor I decided to remove the KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s. They will be replace with the lighter DSHOT600 compatible BeeRotor BS20A ESC’s.

To do so I removed the KISS ESC’s from my BeeRotor Ultra 130 Carbon Fiber Mini FPV Racing Build. I had some BeeRotor DSHOT600 BS20A BLHeli_S ESC 2-4S on an exploited LisaM build.

Removing the BeeRotor BR20A ESC’s

At first I used scissors to cut open the insulation tape I used to fix the ESC’s onto the arms. I often use insulation tape to fix ESC’s. It is durable and easy to remove when there is something to change.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
BeeRotor 20A on LisaM and KISS 24A on BeeRotor 130 ultra

Removing the shrink tubing

Then I used kids nail scissors, as they have a rounded pike, to remove the shrink-tubing from the ESC’s. You can see that the proportions of the ESC’s to the frames do not really fit. I had mounted the KISS ESC’s on the BeeRotor to benefit from the telemetry option. In particular I wanted to get a current draw readout on my Spektrum transmitter over the SRXL protocol.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Removed the shrink tubing of the BR 20A and the KISS 24A ESC’s

Desoldering the BeeRotor BR20A ESC’s

It turns out that the 130 needs a full rebuild to get the smaller 20A ESC’s into the right place, so I desoldered the BeeRotor ESC’s from the LisaM build. I decided to leave the power and signal wires on the ESC’s and to only desolder the three motor wires. So I had to also desolder the power wires from the PDB leaving only the motors, the PDB and some oil from the nano coating on the frame. You can also see the amateurish insulated XT60 power connector.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Desoldered BeeRotor BR20A ESC’s on LisaM

The next step was to clean up the solder pads on the ESC’s with some flux(I had none left) and desoldering braid.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Removing excessive solder on BR20A ESC

Now it was time to clean up the LisaM airframe from the leftover nano coating and to store the airframe away for the next build.

Disassmbling the BeeRotor 130

I went on with the disassembling of the BeeRotor 130. But be aware it’s a water proof and not a clean build.

Disconnecting the flight controller

At first I carefully remove the hot glue from the connectors on the flight controller(BeeRotor BRF3) to disconnect the Spektrum Quad Race Serial Receiver w/telemetry (SPM4649T) and the PDB(Power Distribution Board).

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Disconnect connectors on the BeeRotor flight controller BRF3

Disconnecting the video transmitter (VTX) and removing the Topplate

Then I unplugged the VTX (BeeRotor 5.8G 20-600mW Tunable Transmitter 40CH SMA) to be able to unscrew and remove the topplate.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
BeeRotor 130 ultra with removed topplate

Unsoldering the signal and ground wires on the flight controller

Next I unscrewed the flight controller to desolder the signal and ground wires to the KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s. After that I desoldered the power wires from the PDB.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Unscrewed BRF3 flight controller on BeeRotor 130 ultra

Here you can see the unsoldered flight controller, there is just the power connection from the controller to the 5V regulator on the Power Distribution Board left.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
BeeRotor flight controller (5V, GND) and crimped molex connector for the LED, power sensing

I don’t want to withhold you the image of the crimped molex connctor for the regulated 12V for the BeeRotor 25mW-600mW 40Ch Video Transmitter (VTX).

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
12V for VTX, crimped molex connector on BeeRotor 130 ultra

Removing of the PDB

Now it was time to desolder the power cables to the KISS 24A Race Edition ESC’s. I didn’t have to be very careful at this operation as I desoldered the power wires from the ESC’s later on. Then it was possible to remove the PDB to gain access to the ESC power wires at the bottom of the PDB. So I desoldered the ESC’s at the bottom of the BeeRotor 130 quad to physically decouple the PDB from the BeeRotor Airframe.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
BeeRotor 130 ultra frame with removed KISS24A Race Edition ESC’s

Removing the flight camera

I had to remove the flight camera to gain access to the power wires of the remaining two KISS 24a Race Edition ESC’s. I am using the ELGAE FOV 160 1/3″ CMOS camera include with the frame.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
The PDB I used on the BeeRotor 130 ultra with molex connector for power sensing
Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
The removed flight camera with molex connectors

 

 

 

 

 

Get rid of the KISS 24A race edition ESC’s

Finally I was at the point where I could get rid of the last two remaining KISS ESC’s on my BeeRotor 130 Quadcopter.

Soldering the motor wires on the BR20A ESC’s

After cleaning up the PDB and pretinning the BR20A ESC’s I soldered them to the motor wires. I twisted the two wires on the motors #2 and #3 to change the direction of the motors from clock wise(CW) to counter clock wise(CCW). In the next Blogpost we will see that I was wrong and I should have twisted the wires on motors #1 and #4.

Get rid of KISS 24A Race Edition ESC's
Soldering of the motor wires on the BeeRotor BR130 ultra
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